Burning DVD's for your Wii
From OzModChips Wiki
The following guide was written by Zebra from SpeedLabs.org, an expert on this subject.
 .::zebra's media guide for the ideal console playback::.
Generally speaking, the OPU (optical pickup unit) of your console and the associated lense that reads your media were designed to read printed/pressed "DVD-ROM" style retail media. When your console encounters media other than the specific booktype and media identifiers found in generic pressed silver, it has the potential to behave in several ways:
- It will not read the disc correctly
- It will generate high CRC (cyclic redundancy checksum) error counts
- It will eventually wear out the OPU servo and associated laser diode on read-retries through a high duty cycle (i.e your wii lense is screwed)
To avoid such a situation, there are a few things one can do:
- Most Modchips work better with DVD-R, but if you follow the pointers below, +R or +RW shouldn't be a problem.
- Use appropriate/up to date firmware on your DVDburner. Do NOT use out of date firmware on your burner device. Doing so harms the chances of your drive having appropriate write strategies for current media MIDS
- Use high quality media. Do not use RITEK, PRINCO, LASER, MR DATA et al. Use Verbatim, Mitsubishi Chemical, Taiyo Yuden, TDK, Sony et al. The MID coded associated with these discs can be obtained using DVDInfoPro or ImgBurn easily
- Use GOOD burning software. Do NOT use Nero as your writing engine. Use ImgBurn (It's 100% free) or a simple ISO writer such as BURN/DISCO for Mac OS X.
- Use a reputable, industry standard drive. We recommend the use of Optiarc and Pioneer hardware, failing this BenQ hardware. Avoid LiteOn, Samsung, Sony or LG hardware if mission critical burning is of importance to you
- Do NOT burn 16x media at 4x. This is one of the most common mistakes a person can make when console burning. Writing slowly DOES NOT increase write quality. It has a the OPPOSITE net interaction on your media. It only serves to mal-calibrate WOPC constants for your burner and the dye type being burnt to. If media is RATED at 16x, WRITE at 16x, this way, you give the burner an optimal chance to calibrate for the MID code and the power values that were programmed into it's firmware
- One should ALWAYS as a matter of course, verify/CRC and parity scan all burnt media after recording with Imgburn and DVDInfoPro, to test for fatal CRC errors
- Perhaps a little more advanced, make sure your DVD burner firmware has the capability of DVD+R --> DVD-ROM booktype setting. If you have this capability, ImgBurn will give you the option. Setting DVD+R --> DVD-ROM 'tricks' your devices OPU to consider the burnt media as 'pressed' media, thus allowing a higher level of compatibility
Please only use this guide to burn homebrew for your Wii, we do not condone piracy.